Required Tools

Seems simple right? We'll it can be. First peel off the paper backing exposing the sticky side of the griptape(1). Hold the ends and place each on the nose and tail of the topside of your deck(2). Now, working from the center out, (using both your hands) pat down the griptape working out the air bubbles and excess griptape. If you end up getting a couple air bubbles, don't worry about it. They are easy to get rid of. Simply poke a small hole using your safety knife then apply some pressure. Make sure the griptape covers the entire riding surface. If it's a bit crooked, its okay, just make sure it covers the topside of the board.
Next, using your safety knife, poke through from the bottom side (sticky side) of the griptape(3). Holding your knife at a slight angle and using the board as your guide, pull the blade towards yourself removing the excess griptape. You should be able to cut somewhat clean and quick. Make sure that you are using a new blade if you run into any snags. Using your allen key, phillips head screwdriver, or your punch or awl, run it along the edge of the board smoothing out any rough spots. Griptape is done.

All right, this may get a little tricky. Since most people do not have a bearing press, we'll be getting a little creative here. You are going to use your truck as a bearing press. Many people do this, just be aware that the bearing shields are sensitive, and you need to be sure that you don't use too much pressure. Slide one bearing (shield side facing the truck) on the truck axle. Now slide the wheel on(4). Push the wheel against the side of the bearing until you feel it lock into it place(5). Repeat this step with all your bearings and wheels. (Two bearings for each wheel) If you purchased bearings that came with spacers, be sure to put the spacer on the axle after you have placed the second bearing on the axle for each wheel. That wasn't too bad.
Now that your bearings are in your wheels, you can put your wheels onto your trucks. Slide each wheel onto the axle of your trucks(6). Tighten the axle nuts down, then back off a 1/4 to a 1/2 turn(7). Your wheels should spin smooth and have a little play or movement side to side. Use your tool or 9/16" socket to tighten the axle nuts.

You're almost ready to ride. Using your punch awl, spot your mounting holes and quickly jab through the griptape(8). Make sure that your fingers are clear of the bottom side. Do this to the remaining holes. Place the bolts into the mounting holes(9). It's best to do this one side at a time. At this time, if you purchased risers, line the holes up and place one riser on the deck. Now take your truck and do the same. Make sure that you have the bushing facing inward(10). Place your mounting hardware nuts onto the bolts and hand-tighten. Repeat these same steps for you're other riser and truck. Bushings should be facing each other, if they're not, good luck trying to skate. Using a phillips head screwdriver or your allen key (depending on your hardware) and your socket tool tighten the nuts down completely(11). The head of the mounting hardware should be flush with the surface of the deck.

Give your board a final look over and make sure that all of your parts are correctly assembled. When you inspect your board, you may notice that not all of the wheels touch the ground. Don't worry about it, with a few sessions of skating, the urethane bushings will be worked in and all of the wheels will touch. Something else to keep in mind is that you can adjust how tight the kingpin is locked down. Some skateboarders like to have it stiff while others may prefer to have it somewhat loose. There is no right or wrong, only personal preference. It's your decision to make. Go Skate.